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2006 Bordeaux Vintage Report

After a week of intensive barrel-sampling in early April, it is gratifying to conclude that, at least amongst the upper level's of the Bordeaux hierarchy, this is a much better vintage than had at first seemed likely.

A growing season characterized by bizarre extremes of unseasonable weather conditions posed problems not seen, or certainly not solved, in generations. A cold, wet winter had made for healthy vines. An ideal Spring led into an early Summer of extreme heat, stoking expectations of another potential " vintage of the century ". All this changed with a cold and wet August, a return to abnormal heat in early September, and then heavy rain just as the harvest was getting underway, and finally, relief and favorable conditions in late-September and into October.

More significant even than technological and scientific advances in wine-making over the past twenty or so years, has been an increased understanding of vineyard management. Those who could afford the labor and cost-intensive preventive measures such as leaf and crop-thinning and the re-doubling of harvest crews in order to sweep quickly through the vineyards between downpours, often got away with far better wines than would have been possible just a few years ago.

The downside to this, of course, is that those without the resources for such remedial action were disadvantaged and unable to salvage much of quality from over-cropping and the various adverse conditions brought on by the damp. So, with lowered yields and, in some cases a stylistic reversal of recent trends towards massively extracted wines, an excellent and interesting vintage has resulted for many of the more advantaged properties.

This initial posting of notes on some of the vintages best and most prominent wines will be followed by selections from lesser-known properties and appellations.

We now await prices from Bordeaux before we launch our 2006 Futures offerings.

Saint-Estèphe  

Calon Ségur For the first time entire malolactic carried out in barrique. 75% new oak, 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot. The painstaking and expensive seléction parcellaire harvesting approach ensured perfect ripeness and facetted sweet round fruit flavors, backed by assertive firm, ripe tannins. Beautifully integrated, the pick of the Estèphes.

$735.00

Côs d'Estournel Classically framed Cos. 55% of production in the grand vin and very grand it is. 80% new oak, 78% C.S., 20% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Very dark in color and fruit profile, though the fruit seems masked by the grandeur of the tannins and will need to emerge if this is to live up to the estate's recent form.

$1,725.00

Lafon Rochet 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. Good balance, showing surprising heft toward the finish. Dark berry fruit in evidence, but density of structure indicating that this will reward some patience.

$450.00

Les Ormes de Pez Good depth of color, vibrant fruits, sleek tannins, . 58% Cabernet Sauvignon,36% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc. Outstanding value at the right price.

$410.00

Pauillac  

d'Armailhac Good crunchy, brambly fruit, expansive. Well-knit and elegant, notably long finish. Very polished. 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot.

$480.00

Carruades de Chateau Lafite 48% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, 2.5% Cabernet Franc, 1.5% Petit Verdot. Sumptuous mouth-feel, fruit very present and correct.  Good length, a little short of nerve.

$815.00

Clerc Milon Dense, with obvious breed. Tasted three times, least impressively at Mouton. Elsewhere, anise and clove aromas, rich dark fruit, mocha and plum. Rich and expansive palate. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc.

$550.00

Duhart Milon Rothschild Fragrant, a little floral. Dark cassis, a sweet entry, bold mid-palate, long and soft tannic structure. 70-30 split between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  Clearly outdoes the Carruades.

$550.00

Haut-Bages Liberal Not of the corpulent school, but delineated, with intriguing notes of singed herbs and mineral. 70-30 Cabernet Sauvignon to Merlot. Red currant and blackberry back up a wine of real finesse. If this follows tradition with sensible prices, it will again be a bargain of the vintage.

$420.00

Haut-Batailley More forward than many this vintage. Ample dark, ripe fruits, a lovely crimson gleam and lively acidity. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc.

$450.00

Lafite Rothschild 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, the now-customary 100% new oak. Sculpted and classical in style. Lovely ellipsoid tracing on the glass. A soft opening, bursting rush of high-toned fruits giving way to a steely tightly - wound middle and a sustained finish. Lafite has so much to live up to in recent vintages that if it does fall short, it only does so in relation to its own towering standards. This wine will take a long time, perhaps decades, to deliver.

$7,500

Latour A lustrous profound garnet appearance, great tensile power. Only 38% of the estate's production made it into Latour, resulting in a staggeringly low 10,000 cases. Like many in this vintage, the alcohol levels are relatively low at 13.25%. Exceptionally dark with anise hints, crushed herbs and fine cassis aromas. Overt but pure ripe tannins. 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc. 

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Mouton Rothschild 44% of estate production, amounting to 16 - 17,000 cases, the most stringent selection and possibly the best Mouton since 1996. 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 100% new oak. Dark berry, cassis, spice aromas with a touch of smoke. Charged with fruit, a powerful mid-palate. Very taut and alert, great length, grace and balance. Will call for and reward patience. 

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Pichon Lalande An unusual 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, excluding the entire Petit Verdot quotient, normally a signature here. 50% new oak, 13.2% alcohol, 41 hectolitres/hectare. Dark berry and violet aromas. Lcorice and black cherry. 41% of yield in the grand vin. Clearly some atypical decisions made here under the new Roederer regime.

$1,575.00

Pontet Canet Over at least a decade, Pontet Canet has displayed breed beyond its 5th Growth status. Coffee and red fruit aromas, ground spices, segueing into darker fruit and licorice nuances on the palate and on to a graceful finish.. The chateau has not gone for size here. Right up with the top second growths. 60 % new oak, 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 2 % Petit Verdot.

$950.00

Saint-Julien

Lagrange Not in the flamboyant mould of 2005, but well-structured with a textbook restraint. Cedary and mineral with the trade mark Petit Verdot excluded. 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot. First vintage for Bruno Eynard as he fills the large shoes of Marcel Ducasse.

$565.00

Langoa Barton Atypically high 50% Merlot perhaps elevates the perception of alcohol here. 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Cabernet Franc. A high 70% new oak. A firm wine that will reward cellaring, but after 15 years or so, the pay-off will be elegance rather than majesty. 

$745.00

Leoville Barton Opaque, dense and purple in appearance. Quintessential Cabernet nose, nicely assertive currant, mineral and licorice mid-palate. Complex with a backbone of steel and extended finish. 75% new oak barrels, 70% Cabernet Sauvignon,24% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc.

$875.00

Leoville Las Cases Continuing to perform at First Growth levels, Las Cases includes a high 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.5% Merlot, and .5% Cabernet Franc, with a 7.4% volume of press-wine contributing to a wonderfully delineated structure. In a vintage of relatively few outstanding wines, this is certainly among the best. Gorgeous spice and dark fruit aromas with intense mulberry and tobacco flavors and streamlined finish

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Margaux

Brane Cantenac A Brane Cantenac of great charm with iron, cedar and floral notes paving the way for fresh red cherry and plum. Good extension. A wine that may come on stream earlier than many. 

$735.00

Ferriere Fragrant and refined. Silky and beautifully ripe, though far from overblown. Well-crafted. A finely tuned 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot.

$395.00

d'Issan Purple with notes of walnut and dark fruits. polished. Crisp and fresh. 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot combined with 7% press wine. 55% of production went to the first wine. 50% new oak. at 13.06% this is notably restrained in alcohol, down from 13.72% in '05.

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Lascombes The 50% Merlot makes for a Graves-like richness seldom found in the appellation, with smoky, brooding mocha and dark fruits. A  leatheriness and smoked meat aromas on the nose with a thread of kirsch rippling through to an extended finish. Well done again. Lascombes has settled into a style distinctly its own.

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Margaux A strong candidate for Right Bank wine-of-the-vintage. Again, the most graceful of the Firsts, despite a staggering 90% of Cabernet Sauvignon. An almost even distribution of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Margaux is always tasted against a background of statistical superlatives. '06 is second only to '05 in "tannic richness".  36% of the crop went to the 1st Growth, amounting to 12,500 bottles. Edgy, tensile and harmonious.

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Pavillon Rouge de Ch. Margaux The beneficiary of the overwhelming majority of the estate's Merlot, 40% of it here, to 55% Cabernet Sauvignon with a seasoning of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. A markedly vibrant acidity freshens the wine, even if it does fall a little short at the end.

$815.00

du Tertre 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Fragrant and alert. Bright, rich dark and red berry fruits. Some spice notes and brioche.

$435.00

Pessac-Leognan

Domaine de Chevalier A very different expression of Chevalier. Greater richness and concentration at the expense of some elegance, but well-made nonetheless. A serious interplay of minerality and berries with some mocha. 67% Cabernet Sauvignon is a high proportion here.

$575.00

Haut-Bergey 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot. Big and serious tannins. Minerality and bright fruits. Attractive earthiness and berries on the nose. Pulls up a little short.

$350.00

Haut-Brion Oak and graphite on the nose. As dark as any wine this vintage and, with 57% super-ripe Merlot, carries its 14% alcohol effortlessly. 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc. A majestic core of stone and steel dominates the wine. Clearly for the ages, the barrel sample kept its fruits sternly buttoned down.

$7,000.00

Bahans Haut-Brion 34% each of Cabernet sauvignon and merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. 32% new oak barrels. More austere than La Mission. Fizzes with fresh minerality.

$815.00

La Mission Haut-Brion This takes the flamboyance prize this vintage, and, in a year notable for its relatively low alcohol, this weighs in at 14.3% (the Merlot rose to 15%). A fine, rich purple. Woodsmoke, dark plums and iron on the nose. High-tone blackberry, cherry liqueur and extraordinary balance. 80% new oak, 59% Merlot. Huge ripe fruit, massive structure and impressive length.

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Pomerol

Petrus Much sterner than 2005. Immense and utterly opaque. All it lacks now are flesh and charm. This Petrus has an imperious, classical austerity. The fruit is entirely battened down, but clearly present and the huge tannins will carry the wine until it comes into its own. This will take a long time to come into its own.  Ripeness at all costs is not the Moueix way. Hence this monumental, serious, sculpted Petrus.

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Vieux Chateau Certan 75-25% Merlot to Cabernet Franc. Just over 3,000 cases, 1,300 down on '05. Alexandre Thienpont says that late harvesting for ripeness, backed-up by vineyard trie put 15-20% of crop at risk, but it paid off. A generation ago, they would have got the picking out of the way earlier which would have sacrificed some of the grace, and structured, sweet liqueur-like fruit. Thrilling and fine.

$1,950.00

Saint-Emilion

Angelus A property that has made no concession to the vintage. Angelus is unashamedly massive and dark, the wine is rich and powerful, but without quite the signature breathtaking extravagance we have come to expect. This is a vintage where many top properties suffer by comparison to their own standards.

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Barde Haut From the Garcin Leveque family, assisted by Dr. Alain Raynaud. Style, freshness and elegance. 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. Vibrant and commendably restrained.

$415.00

Cheval Blanc 55% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Franc from a yield of 28 ha/hl, for 5,000 cases in all. Iron and iodine with fruit and floral aromas, finely meshed with dark fruits and spices. Elegant and refined. Impressive length. Quite tight and not an easy read. The 2005 is a hard act to follow.

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Rol Valentin Lower alcohol, classic St.-Emilion profile. Foot off the high extraction/concentration pedal.

$545.00

 

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