2006 Bordeaux Vintage Report
After a week of intensive barrel-sampling in early April, it is gratifying to
conclude that, at least amongst the upper level's of the Bordeaux hierarchy,
this is a much better vintage than had at first seemed likely.
A growing season characterized by bizarre extremes of unseasonable weather
conditions posed problems not seen, or certainly not solved, in generations. A
cold, wet winter had made for healthy vines. An ideal Spring led into an early
Summer of extreme heat, stoking expectations of another potential " vintage
of the century ". All this changed with a cold and wet August, a return to
abnormal heat in early September, and then heavy rain just as the harvest was
getting underway, and finally, relief and favorable conditions in late-September
and into October.
More significant even than technological and scientific advances in
wine-making over the past twenty or so years, has been an increased
understanding of vineyard management. Those who could afford the labor and
cost-intensive preventive measures such as leaf and crop-thinning and the
re-doubling of harvest crews in order to sweep quickly through the vineyards
between downpours, often got away with far better wines than would have been
possible just a few years ago.
The downside to this, of course, is that those without the resources for such
remedial action were disadvantaged and unable to salvage much of quality from
over-cropping and the various adverse conditions brought on by the damp. So,
with lowered yields and, in some cases a stylistic reversal of recent trends
towards massively extracted wines, an excellent and interesting vintage has
resulted for many of the more advantaged properties.
This initial posting of notes on some of the vintages best and most prominent
wines will be followed by selections from lesser-known properties and
appellations.
We now await prices from Bordeaux before we launch our 2006 Futures
offerings.
| Saint-Estèphe |
|
|
| Calon
Ségur |
For the
first time entire malolactic carried out in barrique. 75% new oak, 64%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot. The painstaking and expensive seléction
parcellaire harvesting approach ensured perfect ripeness and facetted
sweet round fruit flavors, backed by assertive firm, ripe tannins.
Beautifully integrated, the pick of the Estèphes. |
$735.00 |
| Côs
d'Estournel |
Classically
framed Cos. 55% of production in the grand vin and very grand it
is. 80% new oak, 78% C.S., 20% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Very dark in
color and fruit profile, though the fruit seems masked by the grandeur of
the tannins and will need to emerge if this is to live up to the estate's
recent form. |
$1,725.00 |
| Lafon
Rochet |
55%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. Good
balance, showing surprising heft toward the finish. Dark berry fruit in
evidence, but density of structure indicating that this will reward some
patience. |
$450.00 |
| Les Ormes
de Pez |
Good depth
of color, vibrant fruits, sleek tannins, . 58% Cabernet Sauvignon,36%
Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc. Outstanding value at the right price. |
$410.00 |
| Pauillac |
|
|
| d'Armailhac |
Good
crunchy, brambly fruit, expansive. Well-knit and elegant, notably long
finish. Very polished. 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, 20%
Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot. |
$480.00 |
| Carruades
de Chateau Lafite |
48% each
of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, 2.5% Cabernet Franc, 1.5% Petit Verdot.
Sumptuous mouth-feel, fruit very present and correct. Good length, a
little short of nerve. |
$815.00 |
| Clerc Milon |
Dense, with
obvious breed. Tasted three times, least impressively at Mouton.
Elsewhere, anise and clove aromas, rich dark fruit, mocha and plum. Rich
and expansive palate. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 6% Cabernet
Franc. |
$550.00 |
| Duhart
Milon Rothschild |
Fragrant, a
little floral. Dark cassis, a sweet entry, bold mid-palate, long and soft
tannic structure. 70-30 split between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
Clearly outdoes the Carruades. |
$550.00 |
| Haut-Bages
Liberal |
Not of the
corpulent school, but delineated, with intriguing notes of singed herbs
and mineral. 70-30 Cabernet Sauvignon to Merlot. Red currant and
blackberry back up a wine of real finesse. If this follows tradition with
sensible prices, it will again be a bargain of the vintage. |
$420.00 |
| Haut-Batailley |
More
forward than many this vintage. Ample dark, ripe fruits, a lovely crimson
gleam and lively acidity. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 2% Cabernet
Franc. |
$450.00 |
| Lafite Rothschild |
82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 2% Cabernet
Franc, the now-customary 100% new oak. Sculpted and classical in style.
Lovely ellipsoid tracing on the glass. A soft opening, bursting rush of
high-toned fruits giving way to a steely tightly - wound middle and a
sustained finish. Lafite has so much to live up to in recent vintages that
if it does fall short, it only does so in relation to its own towering
standards. This wine will take a long time, perhaps decades, to deliver. |
$7,500 |
| Latour |
A lustrous
profound garnet appearance, great tensile
power. Only 38% of the estate's production made it into Latour, resulting
in a staggeringly low 10,000 cases. Like many in this vintage, the alcohol
levels are relatively low at 13.25%. Exceptionally dark with anise hints,
crushed herbs and fine cassis aromas. Overt but pure ripe tannins. 86%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc. |
INQUIRE |
| Mouton Rothschild |
44% of estate production, amounting to 16 -
17,000 cases, the most stringent selection and possibly the best Mouton
since 1996. 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 100% new oak. Dark berry,
cassis, spice aromas with a touch of smoke. Charged with fruit, a powerful
mid-palate. Very taut and alert, great length, grace and balance. Will call
for and reward patience. |
INQUIRE |
| Pichon Lalande |
An unusual 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot,
excluding the entire Petit Verdot quotient, normally a signature here. 50%
new oak, 13.2% alcohol, 41 hectolitres/hectare. Dark berry and violet
aromas. Lcorice and black cherry. 41% of yield in the grand vin. Clearly
some atypical decisions made here under the new Roederer regime. |
$1,575.00 |
| Pontet
Canet |
Over at
least a decade, Pontet Canet has displayed breed beyond its 5th Growth
status. Coffee and red fruit aromas, ground spices, segueing into darker
fruit and licorice nuances on the palate and on to a graceful finish.. The
chateau has not gone for size here. Right up with the top second growths.
60 % new oak, 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 2 %
Petit Verdot. |
$950.00 |
| Saint-Julien |
|
|
| Lagrange |
Not in the
flamboyant mould of 2005, but well-structured with a textbook restraint.
Cedary and mineral with the trade mark Petit Verdot excluded. 59% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 41% Merlot. First vintage for Bruno Eynard as he fills the
large shoes of Marcel Ducasse. |
$565.00 |
| Langoa
Barton |
Atypically
high 50% Merlot perhaps elevates the perception of alcohol here. 49%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Cabernet Franc. A high 70% new oak. A firm wine
that will reward cellaring, but after 15 years or so, the pay-off will be
elegance rather than majesty. |
$745.00 |
| Leoville
Barton |
Opaque,
dense and purple in appearance. Quintessential Cabernet nose, nicely
assertive currant, mineral and licorice mid-palate. Complex with a
backbone of steel and
extended finish. 75% new oak barrels, 70% Cabernet Sauvignon,24% Merlot, 6%
Cabernet Franc. |
$875.00 |
| Leoville
Las Cases |
Continuing
to perform at First Growth levels, Las Cases includes a high 85% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 14.5% Merlot, and .5% Cabernet Franc, with a 7.4% volume of
press-wine contributing to a wonderfully delineated structure. In a
vintage of relatively few outstanding wines, this is certainly among the
best. Gorgeous spice and dark fruit aromas with intense mulberry and
tobacco flavors and streamlined finish |
INQUIRE |
| Margaux |
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|
| Brane
Cantenac |
A Brane
Cantenac of great charm with iron, cedar and floral notes paving the way
for fresh red cherry and plum. Good extension. A wine that may come on
stream earlier than many. |
$735.00 |
| Ferriere |
Fragrant
and refined. Silky and beautifully ripe, though far from overblown.
Well-crafted. A finely tuned 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot. |
$395.00 |
| d'Issan |
Purple with
notes of walnut and dark fruits. polished. Crisp and fresh. 54% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 39% Merlot combined with 7% press wine. 55% of production went
to the first wine. 50% new oak. at 13.06% this is notably restrained in
alcohol, down from 13.72% in '05. |
INQUIRE |
| Lascombes |
The 50%
Merlot makes for a Graves-like richness seldom found in the appellation,
with smoky, brooding mocha and dark fruits. A leatheriness and
smoked meat aromas on the nose with a thread of kirsch rippling through to
an extended finish. Well done again. Lascombes has settled into a style
distinctly its own. |
INQUIRE |
| Margaux |
A strong
candidate for Right Bank wine-of-the-vintage. Again, the most graceful of
the Firsts, despite a staggering 90% of Cabernet Sauvignon. An almost even
distribution of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Margaux is always
tasted against a background of statistical superlatives. '06 is second
only to '05 in "tannic richness". 36% of the crop went to
the 1st Growth, amounting to 12,500 bottles. Edgy, tensile and harmonious. |
INQUIRE |
| Pavillon
Rouge de Ch. Margaux |
The
beneficiary of the overwhelming majority of the estate's Merlot, 40% of it
here, to 55% Cabernet Sauvignon with a seasoning of Cabernet Franc and
Petit Verdot. A markedly vibrant acidity freshens the wine, even if it
does fall a little short at the end. |
$815.00 |
| du Tertre |
50%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Fragrant and alert.
Bright, rich dark and red berry fruits. Some spice notes and brioche. |
$435.00 |
| Pessac-Leognan |
|
|
| Domaine de
Chevalier |
A very
different expression of Chevalier. Greater richness and concentration at
the expense of some elegance, but well-made nonetheless. A serious
interplay of minerality and berries with some mocha. 67% Cabernet
Sauvignon is a high proportion here. |
$575.00 |
| Haut-Bergey |
55%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot. Big and serious tannins. Minerality and
bright fruits. Attractive earthiness and berries on the nose. Pulls up a
little short. |
$350.00 |
| Haut-Brion |
Oak and
graphite on the nose. As dark as any wine this vintage and, with 57%
super-ripe Merlot, carries its 14% alcohol effortlessly. 41% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc. A majestic core of stone and steel dominates
the wine. Clearly for the ages, the barrel sample kept its fruits sternly
buttoned down. |
$7,000.00 |
| Bahans
Haut-Brion |
34% each of
Cabernet sauvignon and merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. 32%
new oak barrels. More austere than La Mission. Fizzes with fresh
minerality. |
$815.00 |
| La Mission
Haut-Brion |
This takes
the flamboyance prize this vintage, and, in a year notable for its
relatively low alcohol, this weighs in at 14.3% (the Merlot rose to 15%).
A fine, rich purple. Woodsmoke, dark plums and iron on the nose. High-tone
blackberry, cherry liqueur and extraordinary balance. 80% new oak, 59%
Merlot. Huge ripe fruit, massive structure and impressive length. |
INQUIRE |
| Pomerol |
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| Petrus |
Much
sterner than 2005. Immense and utterly opaque. All it lacks now are flesh
and charm. This Petrus has an imperious, classical austerity. The fruit is
entirely battened down, but clearly present and the huge tannins will
carry the wine until it comes into its own. This will take a long time to
come into its own. Ripeness at all costs is not the Moueix way.
Hence this monumental, serious, sculpted Petrus. |
INQUIRE |
| Vieux
Chateau Certan |
75-25%
Merlot to Cabernet Franc. Just over 3,000 cases, 1,300 down on '05.
Alexandre Thienpont says that late harvesting for ripeness, backed-up by
vineyard trie put 15-20% of crop at risk, but it paid off. A
generation ago, they would have got the picking out of the way earlier
which would have sacrificed some of the grace, and structured, sweet
liqueur-like fruit. Thrilling and fine. |
$1,950.00 |
| Saint-Emilion |
|
|
| Angelus |
A property
that has made no concession to the vintage. Angelus is unashamedly massive
and dark, the wine is rich and powerful, but without quite the signature
breathtaking extravagance we have come to expect. This is a vintage where
many top properties suffer by comparison to their own standards. |
INQUIRE |
| Barde Haut |
From the
Garcin Leveque family, assisted by Dr. Alain Raynaud. Style, freshness and
elegance. 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. Vibrant and commendably
restrained. |
$415.00 |
| Cheval
Blanc |
55% Merlot,
45% Cabernet Franc from a yield of 28 ha/hl, for 5,000 cases in all. Iron
and iodine with fruit and floral aromas, finely meshed with dark fruits
and spices. Elegant and refined. Impressive length. Quite tight and not an
easy read. The 2005 is a hard act to follow. |
INQUIRE |
| Rol
Valentin |
Lower
alcohol, classic St.-Emilion profile. Foot off the high
extraction/concentration pedal. |
$545.00 |
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